Thursday, June 1, 2017

Ultra Black Smokey Eye



There are different flavours of makeup to suit every person – some like it natural and minimal, some like it bold and dramatic and some like it both ways and do whatever the hell they like.  As they should. 

I, personally, am more of a neutrals person.  I’ll wear every shade of brown, peach or pink I can lay my hands on because that’s what I like on my face. 

However, the #30daymakeupchallenge took me significantly out of my comfort zone.  I’m referring to the Day Thirteen post, the smokey eye look.  I’ll be honest and admit that I actually created this look for the challenge a while ago when I was trying to get a little ahead of it, but then I stumbled across the glitter cue and well, there that went out of the window. 



When I created this look, I had just watched a YouTube video by Desi Perkins.  I actually really like her.  She’s one of the most natural YouTubers that I watch without taking it a smidge too far (ahem, Laura Lee – but I still love you!).  The video (which I’ll link below) is about how to create the perfect dark smokey eye look.  I obviously mimicked her video to create this look, so if you’re interested in how to do this professionally, I suggest you watch the video.  If, however, you want the “Makeup-for-dummies” version, keep reading here. 
Step One: Preparation
Prepare yourself by selecting the colours you plan on using.  You can practise the gradient by swatching your colours on your arm to see which colours will create the gradient you’re looking for. 
For my look, I decided to use warm tones and stuck with warm browns and beiges to create my gradient.  For this, I used the Essence All About Nudes eye shadow palette. 

Step Two: The Gradient
I mean, I don’t know why it has to be said that we start in the crease, because that’s where we start for every eye looks, but any way.  The slim line between smokey eyes and panda eyes is separated by my one Golden Rule: blending.  If you’re not committed to blending for at least 30 minutes in total of this look, I strongly recommend you do not try this look. 

I recommend using your normal transition colour.  Work your transition shade into your crease thoroughly with gentle windscreen wiper movements or circular movements, depending on whatever suits you.  I personally prefer windscreen wiper.

Switch colours to the next shade in your gradient, but be sure to apply the next shade slightly lower on the crease than your transition shade.  Don’t worry about getting it on your lid because that’s going to be covered up any way.  If you apply the next shade a little too high, it’s handy to keep the brush that you applied your transition shade on nearby so that you can blend it out to maintain the gradient. 

Once you’re happy with the blend on the two colours, switch colours again and again blend it into your crease, just below the previous shade.  If you’re using particularly dark shades (like Desi Perkins’, who used the most gorgeous brick red shade), you could probably eliminate a third colour and skip straight to your black shadow.  I, however, am super pale and felt that I needed all the help I could get in achieving the perfect gradient. 

The colours I used in order from my transition shade (1) to my darkest crease shade (4)


Step Three: Black
Starting at the very base of the crease, apply a small amount of black shadow.  I used a pencil brush and then blended it out gradually.  Black shadow is a super-bitch if you don’t treat it right, so always apply as little as possible and build it up to where you want it.  Obviously using a pencil brush, this step took me quite a while but I was absolutely terrified to apply too much and then have a mess.  I used Catrice single eye-shadows in “Captain of the Black Pearl”. 

Once you’ve worked the black into the gradient, it’s time to blacken those lids.  Black shadow, as much as it can ruin an entire look in 3 seconds flat, is not as pigmented as you’d need for a total black out on your lids.  I used my LA Girl black gel liner all over my lid.  I let it dry a little so I could blend the edges into the gradient. Once I was happy with the blend at the crease, I set the liner down with my black shadow to add a little intensity and ensure that there was no smudging or creasing. 



Step Four: Lower lash line
Do I need to tell you to do your eyes first, before you do your foundation routine?  No?  Ok. 
Needless to say, doing your eyes before your foundation will save you a lot of heartache and frustration.  Be sure to clean your undereye area with a makeup wipe to make sure there’s no black or dark shadow fall out, before starting your foundation.  This is also a good opportunity to shape your eye look, if you want more of a winged effect or anything. 

Step Five: Finishing Touches
To finish this look off, I applied my Essence Long-Lasting Eye pencil in “Black fever” in both my waterline and tightline.  I used The False Lashes mascara Dramatic Volume Unlimited, but it really made no difference.  In Desi Perkins’ video, she put on false lashes and you couldn’t see them either so I decided to spare myself and not use lashes, since no one would see them anyway. 

And that is your ultra-black, super-dark smokey eye makeup.  I’ve never really worn such dark makeup but I’ll be honest, I could totally be all goth-like and punk-rocker.  Just kidding, I’ll never make it. 





Thank you for checking back in this week.  I hope you have an amazing week until next time! 

Love and light ♡♡♡